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Gauging and installation of plastic windows

Preparation and installation of plastic windows

As a rule many window companies offer departure zamershchika free of charge, our firm not an exception. How competently to make gauging that the plastic window has served much more?

Gauging at installation of a plastic window should be made from both parties of an aperture: from within (from a premise) and outside (from street). Both these of gauging are extremely necessary for definition of depth of a quarter of an existing window aperture. It is obvious that the window should be not less (!) than external sizes of an aperture "not drop out" outside. And here on how many more - depends on set malopredskazuemyh factors which we will consider more low.

It is necessary to consider that factor that the existing aperture can be strongly warped (especially in panel houses) that leads to necessity of increase in the sizes of a window on warp size. In other words, not to admit through cracks between edge of an aperture and edge of a window box, the size of a window should be more than external size of a window aperture at least on 30 - 40 mm on width and 15 - 20 mm on height. It can achieve two ways: or simply to increase overall dimension of a window box, or to expand a plastic window at the expense of special dobornyh profiles, nashchelkivajushchihsja on a box.

Be defined with appearance of a window from outside streets. It is pleasant to some, that almost all box of a plastic window was immured in a wall and was not visible outside, and others prefer to show a window in all beauty. In the same case if the first variant is preferable, do not forget about possible warps of a window aperture not to overdo and to hide in a wall not only a box, but also double-glazed window edge. The second variant is more preferable because of smaller probability of errors and smaller weight of their consequences.

Do not forget that from window lateral aspect from below (and sometimes and from above) outflow for tap of rain water should be established. Therefore the bottom edge of a box of a window should be not below external edge of an aperture (irrespective of a way of installation of outflow). It is necessary that garantirovanno not to block special drainage apertures on lateral aspect of a window box. Besides, the joint between outflow and a frame (it is equal as between a window sill and a frame) necessarily follows germetizirovat, for example, silicone. And in general, outflow is desirable for establishing under a window to exclude any possibility of infiltration of water in a place of their connection. It is not necessary to forget also and about a window sill which should be established too under a window (instead of end-to-end to it), and germetizirovat silicone that, on the one hand, increases mechanical durability of connection, and with another - does not suppose moisture infiltration through a joint under a window sill. For outflow and window sill installation under a frame, a plastic window it is completed special podstavochnym with a profile having height 2,5-4 see That the condensate (if that is formed) did not flow down under a window, the window sill is established with a small bias downwards (SNIP recommends a bias in 3 degrees).

After be defined with the sizes of the future window - compare them to the internal (control) sizes of a window aperture. This comparison allows to find out in due time a mechanical error in the previous calculations, to estimate, how much thick plaster coat should be imposed on internal slopes to make even them to window edge, and also, whether it is necessary to "bite" into slopes that your window has risen into place. In any case it is necessary to aspire to that left less than similar silly work.

Hermetic sealing of plastic windows at installation

Any more the secret that at all variety of building materials a unique method of hermetic sealing of a plastic window put into practice is joint filling between a window box and a wall poliuretanovoj foam. In the list of conclusive advantages of this variant go: the excellent thermal protection and hermetic sealing, ability to take up and in regular intervals to distribute mechanical pressure and wind loadings, indifference to roughnesses of condensed surfaces, simplicity of use and relative cheapness. Really, more technological method for today is not present. But thoughtless and inept application of this way is fraught with rather unpleasant complications.

  1. First, foam collapses (darkens and ohrupchivaetsja) under the influence of a sunlight and atmospheric influence, therefore it should be protected necessarily (!) a layer of hermetic, plaster or, as a last resort, paints. But it is enough to look at newly-baked facades of new buildings to be convinced of that regrettable fact that practically nobody only does not plaster foam, but does not find time to cut off at all its surpluses which are hanging down from peaks and joints, and getting in due course "unexpected" colour.
  2. Secondly, foam is not a waterproofing material, therefore it should be protected necessarily (!) from an atmospheric precipitation any waterproofing material (silicone hermetic quite will approach).
  3. Thirdly, it was more recently found out, what even the dried up foam is capable to change the volume under the influence of temperature to size not less than 5%, and even all of 10%! Well also what? And that as a result of these periodic "retractions-vypjachivany" at too big thickness of a joint (8 - 12 sm) the window box "walks" on size 4 - 6 mm that, on the one hand, leads to destruction of the plaster coat, adjoining to a window, and with another - to work infringement zapornyh accessories mechanisms, and a window that is not closed, does not open - depending on a season. Thus installation "on foam", i.e. without the mechanical fixture, widely practising right after occurrences of assembly foam in the market, does not maintain any criticism, does not provide rigid fastening of a window in an aperture and does not prevent raspiranie a box foam.

Aspire to that the width of a joint between a wall and a window frame of a plastic window did not exceed 3 sm, especially at the big sizes of a window! As to make it it is absolutely not difficult - all manufacturers of window profiles except the basic set necessary for manufacturing of actually plastic window, necessarily make a full set of the additional profiles, allowing to increase width of a box of a plastic window at the invariable sizes osteklenija. These profiles are specially designed and intended for such cases, therefore it is not necessary to be afraid that the plastic window becomes "defective". Moreover, we categorically do not recommend to save on such dilators for the greedy will pay twice.

To avoid serious misunderstanding in the future, it is necessary germetizirovat an external seam between a frame and a wall. If all shutters in a plastic window open - the big problems are not present, external seams are always accessible. And here if there are deaf parts it is better germetizirovat at once since after the plastic window is established also double-glazed windows in deaf parts are put on a place, access to external seams stops, and again to remove double-glazed windows, or, than that is worse, to cause climbers-shtukaturov it will not want. Generally, on this point it is necessary to stop in more details since there is a lawful question: "And than better germetizirovat?" . Unfortunately, while it is unknown simultaneously: a technological, universal and inexpensive method. All problem consists that a surface of a wall adjoining to a plastic window in most cases so rough, and the aperture is so warped that the width of a seam on perimetre of a plastic window fluctuates in limits from 0 to 5 sm (!).

In such cases a unique exit - to plaster, and then to paint, to give to a seam though any elasticity on a joint with a frame. If the width of a seam does not exceed 15 mm it is possible to choose on the discretion or silicone hermetic, or to use technological, but rather expensive poliuretanovuju self-extending sealing tape (PSUL). Tape application is justified only for hermetic sealing top otlivov (peaks) at installation of windows on balconies and loggias in view of its big cost and loss of waterproofing properties in not compressed condition. In other cases it makes sense to use pastelike silicone hermetics in view of their high adhesion to concrete and low cost. It is necessary to hope, however, that in the near future in the market there will be something more reliable, convenient and universal. Well and now, when there is a hope that your new plastic window has those sizes which allow to mount fearlessly it, but also you have all necessary materials, it is possible to discuss some subtleties of this process.

Methods of installation of plastic windows

There are two standard methods of fastening of a window frame:

  1. direct fastening through a box;
  2. fastening by means of the metal plate-anchor clinging to the special plastic lock on an outer side of a box.

Each method has advantages and lacks. So the first method demands removal from a frame of all shutters and double-glazed windows for the period of installation, but allows krepit a plastic window practically in any aperture and guarantees transfer of loadings directly on internal metal armature of a plastic window, instead of on plastic. The second method simplifies process of levelling of a plastic window on level and a plumb and does not leave traces on a face surface of plastic. Besides, it is possible to argue long what of them is better, but in practice the method choice is defined more soon by personal tastes of assemblers and, partially, the form of metal armature in a box. The first method is more universal, garantirovanno is reliable and simple.

In the rest installation process is obvious enough: the plastic window is released from all double-glazed windows and hinged shutters, then the empty frame is carefully exposed with the help raspornyh kolodok (wedges) on a vertical plumb and horizontal level, apertures in a frame and a wall for the future fixture on all perimetre of a plastic window are drilled, the frame is fixed by means of special tsangovyh bolts, double-glazed windows and svorki come back to a place, and a joint between a plastic window and a wall germetiziruetsja poliuretanovoj foam. After that it is necessary to remove only a protective film from profiles, to establish outflow and a window sill, zagermetizirovat a joint from outside streets, to adjust accessories, and it is possible to consider process ended.

Mark all removed shtapiki which krepjat double-glazed window, subsequently to put them precisely on a former place. It is necessary because in the course of manufacture of a plastic window the necessary sizes shtapikov are defined precisely in a place by a special measured ruler. And identical, on idea, shtapiki appear different in length. Certainly, this difference makes only 1 - 2 mm, but even such trifle is perfectly appreciable in a place of a joint horizontal and vertical shtapikov.

The Plastic window should stand (!) on bottom bearing kolodkah which do not leave after installation. In any luchae do not suppose, that the plastic window "hung" on djubeljah as the weight metalloplastikovogo windows with a two-chamber double-glazed window can reach 150 kg, and assembly foam, djubelja it will not keep. Certainly, to have these kolodki follows near to vertical elements: on corners of a frame and under vertical partitions-impostami in a frame.

At exhibiting of a plastic window on a vertical use only a plumb (!) with absolute axial symmetry and a sharp tip. At all do not use for this purpose a lath-level since in most cases accuracy of indications of such levels "does not climb in any gate". For the same reason at levelling of horizontals it is recommended to use "the antiquated" water level made of enough thick transparent hose as the same level is necessary for installation of several plastic windows at one fixed height.

Carefully watch to admitting water hit through fixing apertures in the central chamber. It concerns not only to fixing djubeljam. Any profile is designed so that to take away outside the water filtering through the first layer of consolidation. But originally this water can accumulate in a special flute over the central chamber into which the metal armature is inserted. And, being "harmful" by the nature, this water can become numb under impost in a place of its fastening to a frame, or filter through apertures for samorezov with which the internal armature fastens. By the way, some apertures can serve in the central chamber drilled with the bottom end face of a box and through which the accumulated moisture can "leave" in concrete (it, of course, "to one of preventive methods of struggle against all the same appeared water not to eat well", but nevertheless it is better, than promerzanie).

At a twisting of fixing screws do not aspire to clamp them more tightly. Otherwise you can not notice, how the window will accept bochkoobraznyj a kind. In any case, it is expedient after raskreplenija to check up once again the general levelling of a window and absence of deflections of a profile in fastening places.

Upon termination of works do not forget to remove a protective film from plastic profiles. It is better to make it at once as this film is not intended for long operation, and under the influence of the sun it quickly loses elasticity and durability and turns to a layer of an absolutely not not washed off paint.

In addition on the given theme:

Wooden windows. Manufacture kleenogo a bar
Wooden windows - the help in a choice
Defects of wood
Furnish of slopes
Plastic windows. Stage-by-stage installation
Care of plastic windows
the Complete set of plastic windows
New profile KBE with ecological compounding GREEN LINE
Digression for the potential customer
Of what plastic windows